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While ice clarification might not be a new invention, it is a very common technique used by our team to produce a clear, expressive and pure liquid extraction from an otherwise cloudy or viscous medium. At any given time you’ll find something being ice-clarified here, be it a broth, juice, amazake, or other flavorful liquid. It isn’t uncommon to see multiple setups of frozen liquids swaddled in fine muslin cloth suspended over a container that slowly collects every drop of clarified product. By freezing a liquid solid and then letting it thaw slowly in cheesecloth, the solution will naturally fraction itself as each component of the mixture has a different freezing point. Elongating the thawing process and not disturbing the product allows for the solid structure to remain while the free liquids can flow into the reservoir below as they melt.   When we consider fruits and vegetables that contain high amounts of pectin, such as tomatoes, strawberries, gooseberries and potatoes, it can be textually limiting to use them in various capacities like broths and vinaigrettes, because the natural pectin creates a thicker viscosity that is sometimes not desired. By ice clarifying the blended pulp of something like a gooseberry or a tomato, the resulting liquid is much thinner, yet still retains the original flavor. In some cases, once we ice clarify the juice, we are then able to reduce it to a syrup-like consistency for use in glazes and pastes. Removing impurities and fibrous elements enables us to reduce them without any solids over-darkening and becoming bitter.   To make our “tamari” products, a purée of water, peaso and aromatics is ice-clarified. Here, the starch network of the peaso traps impurities from transferring into the final liquid as the mixture thaws. More recently, we’ve also had success with clarifying using our centrifuge, which takes 15 minutes vs. overnight (or longer) for ice clarification. Despite the clear temporal benefit of the centrifuge, the limitations in capacity and the necessity of using single-use plastic make ice clarifying our preferred method of clarification.
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Over the years we’ve come to use kombu in myriad ways—from flours to salts to oils; the rich umami flavor derived from kelp is undeniable. But what about using this abundant resource in a sweet application? If you were to imagine seaweed as a fruit leather, you might think of this Aronia Kelp.   Starting with rausu-konbu, we make a broth of aronia berry juice (also known as chokeberry), dried ceps, dried morels, dried lingonberries, roasted juniper wood, and quince tea, simmering first for 24 hours. Next, we add more liquid and simmer for another 48 hours. The broth is then uncovered and simmered again for an additional 24 hours, after which we air-dry the kelp.    The resulting texture of this multi-day process is a tender yet chewy bite, with a flavor rich with umami, a hint of berry and earthiness, and just a bit of licorice. Another one of the many delicious ingredients made from kelp in our larder.
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It’s weekend over at noma headquarters! Before we clock out though, we like to finish the week on Friday nights with a small (blind) wine tasting, often with a theme to do with the current pairing. This week we tried red wines from the Jura containing grape varieties that have mostly disappeared after the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century. Who knew that once upon a time petit béclan, enfariné, melon à queue rouge, geuche, and many more cultivars were often co-planted and blended in order to make a balanced whole? Nowadays these forgotten grape varieties are almost non-existent, but you can still find some winemakers using them, like the wine currently on our pairing made by Raphaël Monnier of Domaine Ratapoil, or some cuvées from Jean-François Ganevat or Julien Labet. After the discussion it is time for a cheers and off we go into the night. Back again on Tuesday!
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We are fortunate to work with so many talented artists to create new environments each season here at noma. For Ocean Season this year, we collaborated with local artist Julie Lænkholm to create this beautiful work, Nés sous la même étoile (2023). For this piece, @julielaenkholm used Japanese indigo-dyed silk from indigo plants grown in her garden and silk fabric that’s been exposed to the changing seasons—rain, snow, wind, and sun—around her studio. In contrast to the other natural dyes where the color penetrates the fibers, the indigo dye acts differently as it remains on top of the silk fibers which allows the imprinting of movement of water more vividly. The wool used is also dyed from indigo, bark and mushroom, and the purple dyed wool is made from plants from noma’s garden that was part of the research-based project Lænkholm situated in our garden and titled Insomnia (2022). In the words of art critic @janeursulaharris “Akin to the felted wool paintings for which she is known that ritually embed the techniques of her Icelandic forebears with elements of the natural world (wool is dyed with the leaves, flowers and roots of native plants and shaped into organic forms), the artist’s garden is a symphony of color and texture. Insomnia celebrates the cycles of life that bind us all to our ancestral motherland, and to the female caretakers that have preserved its healing bounty". 📸: @david_stjernholm
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Two years ago, we reached out to our coffee roaster @timwendelboe with a challenge: to devise a new brewing method for our service. Up until then, we had been serving both V60 and espresso and, whilst we were happy with the coffee we were serving, we knew that there was a way to make it more consistent and delicious for our guests.   A meal at noma involves trying many flavors that one perhaps hasn’t tasted before. By the time dessert comes around, your palette has had a serious workout. An espresso, with all its intensity might be delicious, but in the context of palette fatigue feels too aggressive. Equally, a filter coffee felt perhaps a bit thin.   Where we landed is somewhere in between the two. A coffee with just enough strength to have the body and viscosity to please espresso drinkers, but with a clarity of flavor that one usually associates with filter coffee. Swipe to see how we make it!   For the curious among you, Tim recorded a podcast on the subject with our resident tea and coffee lady, @carolynelane - search “Tim Wendelboe” wherever you find your podcasts. Swipe through for the background (vid 1) and process (vid 2).
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Aceto Vongole, Non Vongole   Remember how we spoke about our vacuum-distilled clam vinegar a few posts ago, and how we suspected that it might be allergen-free?   We sent a sample to an analysis lab to find out for sure, and the results confirmed our hypothesis that, just like how a distilled spirit made from gluten-containing grains (like whisky and rye is considered gluten-free) our vacuum-distilled clam vinegar was also free of traces of actual clam. The sample analysis came back with no traces of the allergens that trigger mollusk and crustacean allergies. We’ve made a vinegar flavored with actual clams that someone who perhaps has never eaten clams before in their life due to an allergy can finally consume. Made with raw-shucked clams, the flavor of this vinegar is very similar to that of a fresh half-shell clam—bright, briny and almost “crunchy” in freshness. While the original idea of this project was to produce a vinegar that tasted like fresh seafood, this coincidental benefit definitely has us excited for future applications across noma and Noma Projects. Imagine developing a shellfish allergy in adulthood after a childhood’s worth of memories of linguine alla vongole, lobster in drawn butter or oysters on the half shell, and finally being able to enjoy those true flavors once again!
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A selection of images from our head sommelier, @avamees , as she travels through Japan this week digging deeper into the rituals of sake, teas, and spirits in preparation for our return to Kyoto in autumn. 1 - Rice steamer at Moriki 2 - Moriki Shuzo 3 - fermenting sake in the tank 4 - weaving indigo fabric in Shimane 5 - Washed rice at Tamagawa 6 - gloves hanging in the kimoto making room at Kumezakura 7 - 'Nuka', or shavings polished off the rice grain (the more brown one is powder from the outer rice grain) 8 - The kimoto starter fermentation is so long they had to add a page with tape
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Fresh on the heels of our Noma Kyoto Autumn 2024 announcement, our head sommelier Mees is in Japan as we speak in order to prepare the pairings for the upcoming pop up. This time she is back to dig even deeper into all things sake, tea and spirits…and sometimes to soak in an onsen and overthink it all.  In our Noma in Kyoto Magazine, Mees wrote this passage in her article about creating the first beverage menu for Noma Kyoto: “My knees hurt from trying to sit on the floor, but it doesn’t matter. By now it is completely dark outside and the rain has started pouring down. Sitting under the high roof of the century-old tasting room at Terada Honke I have just gathered enough courage to ask Terada if he would be willing to collaborate on a sake for our Kyoto project, and he has agreed. I cannot believe the honor just bestowed on me and ignore a sleeping left leg while we discuss what kind of sake might work for our event. It is April 2022, three days since I first set foot in this country. I think it counts as a good start.” We can’t wait to share more stories on our current travels to Japan soon! In the meantime, you can purchase our Noma in Kyoto magazine via the link in bio.
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Kyoto is calling. This fall, noma will return to the city where we staged a residency that ranks among the most fulfilling and creatively electric periods in our team’s history. From October 8th to December 18th 2024, we will once again return to @acehotelkyoto for a ten-week pop-up. Follow link in bio for our full announcement. Reservations for Noma Kyoto 2024 will be released via our newsletter only on May 14th. Sign up before May 7th to receive information on how to book a table at Noma Kyoto. Accommodation packages with table reservations will also be available with our friends at Ace Hotel. When we return to Copenhagen in the spring of 2025, we will open for Ocean Season, the last of the three-season yearly format we have followed since 2018. We’re beginning a new chapter for our restaurant—a time for us to take even bolder creative leaps, share even more widely, and follow our curiosity wherever it may lead us. We cannot wait to share more with you. 京都という町に導かれるように、今秋、ノーマは京都に再び参ります。 京都で過ごした時間はチームの歴史の中で最も充実し、クリエイティブで刺激に包まれた期間の一つでした。 10月8日から12月18日の間、ノーマはエースホテル京都に戻り、10週間のポップアップを開催します。詳細はプロフィールリンクよりご覧ください。 ノーマ京都2024のご予約は5月14日配信のニュースレターにてリリースとなります。5月7日までにニュースレターにご登録くださいませ。エースホテルではテーブルご予約付きの宿泊パッケージをご用意しています。 ポップアップ後、コペンハーゲンに戻ったあと、2025年初頭には2018年より続いていた3シーズンコンセプトの最終シーズンとしてもう一度だけオーシャンシーズンをオープンします。そしていよいよ私たちノーマの新たなるページを開く時です。さらなる創造性の飛躍へ、より広く分かち合い、どこまでも好奇心に従い進んでいく時がもうそこまできています。 皆さんにもっとお話しできる日が待ち遠しいです。
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23 dagen geleden
Sea Food, Differently   For years we’ve been kicking around the idea of creating a seafood vinegar that was produced with fresh seafood. In our conversations with Rene, he envisioned a clean, briny vinegar; as if you had spritzed a raw oyster with lemon before eating it. We understood that blending fresh clams or oysters into a mixture of water and ethanol followed by weeks at room temperature in an open container pumped with oxygen resulted in, well, a stomach ache. It was a trial that puzzled us to the edge of madness. A seemingly impossible task of staving off rancidity with an ingredient that, arguably, gets worse by the second as soon as it’s removed from the ocean. And just to tempt fate even further, we were expected to hold this product in a medium that discouraged preservation; low acid, low salt, high oxygen, room temperature, high water activity. Given the recent success of our newly developed vacuum distilled vinegar method, we decided to try to integrate that process into our seafood vinegar endeavors to see if they played nice together. When we made a clam vinegar by macerating raw-shucked clams in strong vinegar and then distilled it, we were underwhelmed by the result. It was faintly clammy, but not in the bold way that our other vacuum distilled vinegars expressed. The revelation arose that perhaps the vinegar wasn’t tasting of briny clams because you CAN’T DISTILL SALT! 🤦🏻 Sure enough, salting the vinegar snapped our black and white clam image into HD color. We were surprised how much salt accounts for our perception of oceanic flavors. In retrospect, of course, the salt in an oyster comprises a large part of its flavor, but you never really understand that until you’ve tasted an oyster with no salt. We’re also speculating, because whisky is considered gluten-free (the proteins in wheat and barley don’t distill), that we may have just created a completely natural seafood vinegar that won’t trigger seafood/shellfish allergies. We’re still seeking confirmation in the form of food analysis, but for all our friends out there who unfortunately harbor a seafood allergy, we may have an exciting prospect for you, so stay tuned!
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Bootstrap Paradox Vinegar   Last year the fermentation lab upgraded their rotary evaporator setup, taking a big step into the modern age with a new, top-of-the-line system. With it, we were able to dial in more specific settings, temperatures, and vacuum levels; we went from Arkadiko Bridge to bridge of the Starship Enterprise. One project that we considered for years that wasn’t possible with the previous system was making a powerfully flavored vinegar that was both clear and colorless. By removing color and clarity from the equation, we could maximize the versatility of the ingredient; it could season a clear broth or a juice without affecting the appearance. Our theory was that by drawing a powerful ethanol distillate from the ingredient, we would be able to replace the normally flavorless ethanol addition in our vinegar-making process with a heavily flavored addition instead. What we found out after our first trial, however, was that the volatility of the ethanol combined with the air pump that we use to oxygenate the vinegar worked against us, forcing all the wonderful flavors and aromas into the surrounding space instead.   Further investigation revealed that acetic acid (the acid in vinegar) is similar in miscibility to ethanol, meaning that it too would be able to easily retain flavors and aromas of ingredients it is mixed with. As it turned out, we were going about this project backwards; or rather, we needed to go about this project backwards and start with a vinegar to make a vinegar. Connecting the dots, we tried blending ingredients with strong distilled vinegar (24% acetic acid). We then vacuum distilled the vinegar back out of the mixture, pulling a clear vinegar out of the mass that held on to any aromas and flavor compounds that it could carry. The vinegar would need to be diluted to bring it to a palatable acidity, but even after dilution the flavor remained prominent. With this palindromic  method of starting with a vinegar to produce a vinegar, a pine vinegar was no longer constrained by the tannins found in the needles and a cloudy vinegar could now be made clear, opening a plethora of opportunities not previously attainable.
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Our spring pop-up in Kyoto last year was full of memorable moments. One of the highlights was welcoming our dear friend Phil Rosenthal and his team for lunch at Noma Kyoto. With the newest season of Somebody Feed Phil premiering today, it’s been so much fun to look back on our time in Japan. (Now available on Netflix!)
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